Taking all reasonable steps to
ensure your own safety - as well as the safety of
anyone else who is likely to be affected by what you
do - is a legal requirement. Your efforts should be
to:
• Reduce or remove the hazard.
• Reduce or eliminate the risk.
A hazard is anything that
may cause harm. Risk is the likelihood of
harm being caused.
Most live productions present a
variety of potential hazards and risks. Probably the
easiest way to identify these (and get some
perspective on your priorities) is to carry out a
Risk Assessment. If you don't know how to go
about this, there is a straightforward
explanation on the Health
and Safety Executive website. You also can find
a document template
there if you need one.
As far as touring productions are
concerned, the main everyday considerations are for:
Assuming the electricity supply
is safe, the easiest way to improve safety is to use
30mA Residual Current Detectors (RCDs) at every
mains outlet. These are available for less than $10
at any DIY store (as well as from many high-street
retailers).
Also, all portable electrical
equipment should be regularly inspected and checked
for electrical safety. Where that equipment is used
in a workplace or public area, maintaining it in a
safe condition is a legal requirement. A live event
is both a workplace and a public area.
The most common method of
checking equipment is safe is the Portable Appliance
Test (also known - employing a redundant recursive -
as the PAT Test). One part of the test - which
requires a calibrated tester and someone who knows
how to use it - checks two things: that the
equipment casing is electrically isolated from mains
circuits, and (in the case of earthed equipment)
that the earth connection is sound. The other part
of the test is a visual inspection. A calibrated
tester may reveal invisible faults, but there should
be NO visible faults. Far more faults are
found by inspection than by testing, so visual
inspection is important, and doesn't require
specialist equipment. If you can see something wrong
with it DO NOT USE IT.
You should always have your eye
open for obviously unsafe equipment in your own area
of work (even if it isn't yours). Common easily
visible faults are:
• Damaged casing. If screws are missing so that
covers are not secure, or the lid is bent inwards
(potentially putting it in contact with conductors),
or guards or grilles are not in place, don't use it,
and don't allow anyone else to use it.
• Damaged wires or plugs. If the inner insulation
(or - worse - a bare wire) is visible, don't use it.
Any other signs of damage to cables or plugs also
mean you should put them out of use: a cable that
has been crushed or cut or badly twisted or
stretched is unsafe. If the plug casing is cracked
or damaged, REPLACE IT before using the equipment.
DO NOT use insulating tape (or Gaffer, Sellotape or
parcel tape) to hold it together, even "in an
emergency". In fact, do not use any kind of tape, or
any other "repair".
Other points that are relatively
easy to check are:
• Fuses and fuse ratings. If the plug has a fuse
rating (usually embossed somewhere on it), the fuse
should correspond with it. The same applies if there
is fuse-point on the appliance (20mm fuse-holders
are common in audio equipment). DO NOT REPLACE FUSES
WITH OTHER CONDUCTORS like silver paper, kitchen
foil, nails, screws, or wire. Do not use equipment
in which fuses have been bypassed or replaced with
fuses of a different rating.
• Connections and cable clamps. Cables in plugs
or at entry or exit points in equipment casing
should be securely clamped over the outer
insulation. Don't put lives at risk for the sake of
a couple of minutes with a screwdriver. All cable
conductors should be secure: screws can (and often
do) work loose in plugs, and these should be checked
fairly often. EARTH WIRES SHOULD NEVER BE
DISCONNECTED even if it does make the hum go
away. If you have earth loop problems, disconnect
signal grounds, not the mains earth.
While Portable Appliance Tests
and certificates are not a legal requirement,
they are evidence - often the only satisfactory
evidence - that equipment has been adequately
maintained. Look after your equipment, and get it
tested regularly. Electricity can kill.
Another good reason to get your
equipment tested - if protecting yourself and other
people from electrocution and/or legal action is not
enough - is that test certificates are required by
most public bodies (schools, colleges, hospitals,
local authorities) for all equipment brought onto
their premises. An increasing number of
privately-owned venues apply the same standard, and
this trend is set to continue. In many venues, no
certificate means you don't get to plug it in,
however safe you think it is.
Our own equipment is routinely
inspected and tested, and certificate copies are
available on request. However, we do not provide or
bring certificates with us unless we are asked
(although all our equipment is pass labelled). If
the venue requires certificate copies
we need to know before
we set out.
Also (obviously?), our own
certificates do not cover any third-party equipment
unless we have tested it. Where certificates are
required, they will also be required for the band's
electrical equipment (amplifiers, keyboards,
extension leads). If you need to plug it in to make
it work, you need a certificate for it. If the show
must go on, get it tested.
At outdoor events, any cable
connectors that may be exposed to rain, dew, or
other sources of moisture should be at least
splash-proof (IP44), and preferably even more
watertight (the second digit in the IP rating should
be 5 or higher). Don't use ordinary 13A plugs and
sockets in the rain in the middle of an open field.
After electricity the most
obvious dangers come from cables or other objects -
notably the legs of stands - creating a trip hazard,
or from equipment that is insecurely stacked or
suspended.
Trip hazards are often a
common-sense matter. However, if it hasn't already
occurred to you:
• Don't run cables on the floor across thoroughfares. If
there is absolutely no alternative to running a
cable across a thoroughfare then:
1. Cover it, preferably with a purpose-made cable
strip, and/or
2. Make it visible with hazard tape, or
3. Bury it if it is on grass (but speak to the
owner or person in charge before you dig up
their croquet lawn).
NEVER RUN ANYTHING ON THE FLOOR ACROSS A
FIRE EXIT. Don't obstruct (or place any obstruction
or trip hazard close to) a fire exit.
• Don't allow the legs of speaker stands to project into
thoroughfares. If you really can't avoid it, put
waist-high barriers around them, or - at the very
least - use hazard tape to make them clearly
visible. You can also use hazard tape to mark the
floor around them.
• Secure all loose cables (and remember that everyone is
at risk from them, even the performers, and even
you). Use cable ties overhead, or gaffer tape on the
floor. In outdoor events, use matting to cover
cables in any thoroughfares, or lift a couple of
inches of turf with a spade and cover them that way.
If you want an easier life, check you have power
where you need it before you tape power cables down,
check your speakers are working before you tape
speaker cables down, and line-test before you tape
signal cables down.
• Take care where you place toolboxes and other similar
objects. Under the console or on top of the amp rack
or on a table is good. On the floor in a public
aisle or backstage walkway is bad.
• Take extra care - where you put your feet as well as
where you put equipment - in poorly-lit areas.
Speakers are often stacked,
raised on stands, or flown. Lighting is always
raised, and usually flown. Flown systems should only
ever be suspended from certified load-bearing
mounting-points by qualified personnel. If a speaker
or lantern falls 4 metres into a crowded auditorium
it will probably kill someone. If you need us - or
anyone else - to fly a system of ours at your event,
speak to us about it
before hiring it.
However, more people are injured
(and more equipment is damaged) by stacks or stands
collapsing or falling over than by flown equipment
falling.
Things that may make speaker
stacks or stands unstable are:
• Uneven or sloping surfaces (this is a particular issue
at outdoor events).
• Unstable or weak supports. If you are putting heavy
speakers on the edge of the stage, make sure the
stage can support them safely. Do not stack speakers
on trestle tables, on damaged tables or stands, or
on anything that is not designed to carry their
weight. Make sure stands are rated for the weight
you are placing on them.
• Wind. Do not underestimate wind forces at outdoor
events. Strong winds can put a couple of tons of
pressure on a satellite dish (which is not very big
and has holes in it!). Speaker stacks often have a
much bigger surface area (and no holes). Stacks may
need to be pegged down - or secured in some other
way - to be safe.
• Anything placed on top of something else can fall off
it (in a speaker stack, the boxes on top can fall -
or be pushed, dragged or blown - off the boxes
underneath). A wooden box can kill someone if it
falls on their head. Just putting a ratchet strap
around the stack - preferably threaded through the
handles or in some way prevented from slipping off
- will make it much safer.
Other stacked equipment - like a
mixing console or effects rack - needs the same
attention. Our 12U effects rack weighs over 50Kg.
Wobbly domestic tables are not suitable for this
kind of equipment. We can provide our own stands and
tables for this, but please let us know beforehand
if we need to bring them.
Where there are a lot of people,
you may need to think about crowd control and
first-aid.
Crowd control may require
physical restraints (barriers, fences and gates)
and/or personnel (stewards or security staff).
First-aid requires one or more staff with a
recognised first-aid qualification.
Even if
it doesn't do much to reduce the hazard or the risk,
you should ALWAYS do whatever you can. If there was
something you could have done that was better than
nothing, the first thing any investigating authority
will ask is why - knowing that - you did nothing.